So after my previous post about the Congressional hearing of Roger Clemens, I have to add a little bit more. One way or the other, one side of the equation is true, and only one side of the equation is true. Either Clemens took performance enhancing drugs, or he did not. Let's look at the testimony one at a time.
Brian McNamee:
As the primary accuser in the Clemens case, McNamee is in an interesting position. He openly admitted to injecting Clemens with performance enhancing drugs - and proceeded to flagrantly lie about some of the circumstances surrounding the whole thing. The only reason that McNamee was believable in his statement that he injected Clemens is the coroborration of Clemens' friends and former teammates Andy Pettite and Chuck Knoblauch. This raises only one question - if McNamee was telling the truth about his role in Clemens' alleged HGH and steroid use, why would lie about the circumstances - particularily in light of the physical evidence surrounding some of the issues (ie: the Canseco barbecue which Clemens definitely did not attend).
Roger Clemens:
The only defendant in this issue is the reputation of former major league pitcher, Roger Clemens. Clemens spent his day in court denying all allegations of the use of performance enhancing drugs, and calling McNamee a liar in everything but name. Truthfully, for one short period, Clemens was believable. McNamee's testimony was highly suspect, his credibility doubly so. With the exception of the one significant problem with his deposition that I mentioned and commented on earlier, Clemens was a believable witness. Except for Andy Pettite and his wifes despective depositions.
Andy Pettite:
Clemens' friend and former teammate gave a deposition in which he stated bluntly that Clemens admitted use of performance enhancing drugs to him. Clemens responded by arguing that Pettite had mis-heard him. Mistakes happen, right? Not according to Mrs. Pettite in this case. In her sworn deposition, she said that Andy had told her of his conversations with Clemens which corroborated McNamee's story. So again, I ask what cause Pettite would have to lie to authorities in order to harm Clemens - his friend? Obviously, there is no reason I can see. More damning still is that when posed the same question by Congress, Clemens had no reason either, saying Pettite must have misheard him, or misunderstood, or misremembered. This defense, sadly, the more it is repeated, the less believable it is, as, given the closeness of the friendship between the two, such a conversation would likely have led to others for clarification, or simply continued discussion? Further causing problems for this defense is the deposition of Mrs. Pettite.
Mrs. Pettite:
Has the regrettable role of playing the hangman for Clemens in this issue. Her deposition is simple - that her husband, Andy, had recounted to her conversations with Clemens in which Andy said Clemens admitted to the use of performance enhancing substances. In backing up her husband's deposition, she does, assuming that she's telling the truth, confirm that Pettite believed Clemens said that he personally was taking performance enhancers. The only reason for Mrs. Pettite to lie in this case would be to back up her husband. To lie in a congressional deposition when a simple "I don't know anything" would have been sufficient is beyond stupid, and so there is no reason to assume that she would have done so.
All that taken into consideration, a small part of me wants to believe that Clemens is clean. That said, however, the responsibility of a realist is to take idealistic ideas like that and destroy them. As such, barring further evidence to call into question the depositions of at least one of Andy and Mrs. Pettite, I have no choice but to believe them - meaning that I cannot believe Clemens, no matter how much I would like to be able to. That said, I truly hope that some such evidence comes to light.
Wednesday, February 13, 2008
Innocent? Guilty? Juiced? Who cares?
In light of the latest gong-show about to unfold in Washington D.C. later this week, I guess I should give my two cents. First of all, I'm one of the few idealists who actually is prepared to give Roger the benefit of the doubt. I'm not saying I think he's innocent, I'm just saying that I don't think he's guilty - at least not because Brian McNamee and Sen. George Mitchell say so.
With this in mind, the stage is set for the Rocket, and his former personal trainer to duke it out on Capitol Hill. Only one of the two will be left standing. The question becomes "whom". On one side is former personal trainer Brian McNamee. He comes to the table bringing mostly strong rhetoric. He said he injected Clemens. Clemens said he was never injected with any performance enhancing drugs. If that was all there was to the issue, then, while it wouldn't necessarily go away, it would certainly not make for very interesting argument. He also claims to have old needles, kept for five years, which prove beyond a shadow of a doubt Clemens' guilt. While I'm prepared to admit that Clemens' DNA may be on the needle, and I'm even prepared to admit that there will be HGH, or some other performance enhancing drug, on the needle somewhere. I'm very suspicious as to why someone would keep a used needle from something like that for as long as Mr. McNamee claims to have kept it. Were that the only evidence that McNamee brought to the table, this trial would be neither compelling, nor would it be anything other than a cake walk. Where this trial gets interesting is with the addition of a deposition from Clemens' close friend and former teammate, Andy Pettite. A deposition which clearly states that Clemens admitted to Pettite using HGH. As far as I know, and, from the words of Clemens as seen on CNN's live coverage of the trial, as far as he knows, Pettite has no reason to lie. Clemens argued that Pettite misunderstood, or misheard him during these conversations. I would like to believe that Clemens is telling the truth. That said, Pettite's wife has also submitted an affidavit affirming that Pettite told her of the conversations with Clemens - conversations affirming what Pettite's deposition said.
On Clemens' side is another interesting twist. A BBQ hosted by Clemens former teammate, Jose Canseco - a barbecue where McNamee allegedly was first approached by Clemens for performance enhancing drugs. A BBQ that Clemens, by every single piece of evidence that has been brought forward, including affidavits from host, Jose Canseco and others, never attended. While McNamee holds by his testimony that he saw Clemens at the barbecue, the evidence seems to disagree with McNamee. Given this, it calls into question both McNamee's credibility, and also where McNamee actually WAS approached by Clemens - if he was at all.
Both Clemens and McNamee have shown some credibility issues. McNamee has lied to investigators, lied to the press and openly lied to congress in light of physical evidence. Clemens changed the story in his official deposition regarding discussions with McNamee about HGH. First he said that he never had discussions with McNamee on the subject, and then said that, upon discovery that his wife had injected HGH, he had conversation with McNamee then. To be fair to Clemens, he isn't a lawyer, and he isn't a politician. Most people, when asked that question, would try to answer truthfully in a personal context - and wouldn't think to answer in the context of dealing with another party - even their wife. In this, I'm prepared to accept Clemens' response to the question from the House Committee on this discrepancy that he was answering the question truthfully, but in context of personal use, and prior to his wife's usage. I do not believe this indicates dishonesty on Clemens' part, but simply his being not used to Congressional questioning.
At this point, the hearing is unfolding before my eyes, and I do not know what will unfold. However I do not believe that conclusive evidence will be put forward proving Clemens' guilt. What saddens me the most is that this small fact is irrelevant. Whether Clemens' guilt is proven or not, or even if he is proven innocent, there is nothing to be done to repair the man's reputation. If he is proven guilty, then this is entirely deserved. If, however, as I expect, Clemens can not be proven guilty one way or the other, the damage has been done. One more celebrity crucifixion in the national media, and in the hearts of fans. I only hope that people will rise above the inclination to condemn without proof of guilt, allow Clemens and others like him to retire, properly recognized for the achievements of their careers. Clemens, and other deserving players should be given their day in Cooperstown. I hope he's innocent. But more than that, I wish it would matter whether he was.
With this in mind, the stage is set for the Rocket, and his former personal trainer to duke it out on Capitol Hill. Only one of the two will be left standing. The question becomes "whom". On one side is former personal trainer Brian McNamee. He comes to the table bringing mostly strong rhetoric. He said he injected Clemens. Clemens said he was never injected with any performance enhancing drugs. If that was all there was to the issue, then, while it wouldn't necessarily go away, it would certainly not make for very interesting argument. He also claims to have old needles, kept for five years, which prove beyond a shadow of a doubt Clemens' guilt. While I'm prepared to admit that Clemens' DNA may be on the needle, and I'm even prepared to admit that there will be HGH, or some other performance enhancing drug, on the needle somewhere. I'm very suspicious as to why someone would keep a used needle from something like that for as long as Mr. McNamee claims to have kept it. Were that the only evidence that McNamee brought to the table, this trial would be neither compelling, nor would it be anything other than a cake walk. Where this trial gets interesting is with the addition of a deposition from Clemens' close friend and former teammate, Andy Pettite. A deposition which clearly states that Clemens admitted to Pettite using HGH. As far as I know, and, from the words of Clemens as seen on CNN's live coverage of the trial, as far as he knows, Pettite has no reason to lie. Clemens argued that Pettite misunderstood, or misheard him during these conversations. I would like to believe that Clemens is telling the truth. That said, Pettite's wife has also submitted an affidavit affirming that Pettite told her of the conversations with Clemens - conversations affirming what Pettite's deposition said.
On Clemens' side is another interesting twist. A BBQ hosted by Clemens former teammate, Jose Canseco - a barbecue where McNamee allegedly was first approached by Clemens for performance enhancing drugs. A BBQ that Clemens, by every single piece of evidence that has been brought forward, including affidavits from host, Jose Canseco and others, never attended. While McNamee holds by his testimony that he saw Clemens at the barbecue, the evidence seems to disagree with McNamee. Given this, it calls into question both McNamee's credibility, and also where McNamee actually WAS approached by Clemens - if he was at all.
Both Clemens and McNamee have shown some credibility issues. McNamee has lied to investigators, lied to the press and openly lied to congress in light of physical evidence. Clemens changed the story in his official deposition regarding discussions with McNamee about HGH. First he said that he never had discussions with McNamee on the subject, and then said that, upon discovery that his wife had injected HGH, he had conversation with McNamee then. To be fair to Clemens, he isn't a lawyer, and he isn't a politician. Most people, when asked that question, would try to answer truthfully in a personal context - and wouldn't think to answer in the context of dealing with another party - even their wife. In this, I'm prepared to accept Clemens' response to the question from the House Committee on this discrepancy that he was answering the question truthfully, but in context of personal use, and prior to his wife's usage. I do not believe this indicates dishonesty on Clemens' part, but simply his being not used to Congressional questioning.
At this point, the hearing is unfolding before my eyes, and I do not know what will unfold. However I do not believe that conclusive evidence will be put forward proving Clemens' guilt. What saddens me the most is that this small fact is irrelevant. Whether Clemens' guilt is proven or not, or even if he is proven innocent, there is nothing to be done to repair the man's reputation. If he is proven guilty, then this is entirely deserved. If, however, as I expect, Clemens can not be proven guilty one way or the other, the damage has been done. One more celebrity crucifixion in the national media, and in the hearts of fans. I only hope that people will rise above the inclination to condemn without proof of guilt, allow Clemens and others like him to retire, properly recognized for the achievements of their careers. Clemens, and other deserving players should be given their day in Cooperstown. I hope he's innocent. But more than that, I wish it would matter whether he was.
Saturday, February 9, 2008
The right to privacy
In the five seconds it's taken you to read so far, someone, somewhere has posted a video on Youtube. Quite likey, this video is enough to make the person in the video look like a jackass. Slightly less likely, this video could be one of the growing number of YouTube series that have seemingly taken over the internet. In all likelihood, the video is harmless. Every so often, though, a video comes across the internet that, while it may not have a darker purpose, may certainly have far darker effects. In the case of one particular video, those effects can cost a man his reputation.
The video I refer to is the short-lived video allegedly depicting Mets superstar Pedro Martinez taking part in a cockfight in his home country of the Dominican Republic. This is not a condemnation of Martinez, nor is a condemnation of cockfighting. There are enough of those floating around the internet that adding one more doesn't make a great degree of sense. Furthermore, I don't condemn Martinez - his life, his time, his decision of how he spends it. Cockfighting is a legal and accepted aspect of Dominican culture - we find it barbaric, but who are we to judge? What I'm here to condemn instead are the people in the media - both the professional journalists, as well as the amateurs like myself who post to blogs, or post to Youtube - for invading the private life of an individual.
Ultimately, whether Martinez participated in a cockfight is immaterial. I don't know whether he did - I wasn't there, I never saw the Youtube video and, to be completely honest, I don't care. That being said, however, there is another, more important question that I have to ask myself: namely, "Is it my business?". The answer, if I look deep into my soul and answer honestly, is no.
So why, then, is it being reported on. Obviously, the professional journalist argues that the public wants to know, and that the public has an innate RIGHT to know. Were this issue to be something that actually has an effect on the population, I would agree with this argument. This is not such an issue. It's a case of one individual using his own time, in his own country, to engage one way or the other in a passtime that is not just legal, but is a cultural norm in that country. This is not the business of the general public.
Furthermore, what of the consequences? Should a man guilty of no crime be punished because of his actions? Most rational men would suggest that such an action would be an abberration of justice - yet this is precisely what some animal rights activist groups are suggesting. Martinez' alleged actions were not illegal, and were not opposed to any sort of code of conduct required from his contract with the New York Mets, and yet it's been suggested by some that a harsh suspension should be enacted against him - on the basis of a Youtube video, and a profession that deems the invasion of privacy to be a valid passtime in the name of filling public curiosity.
The damage to individual's reputations, however, are not the most severe reprecussions of this sort of journalism. This time last year, we saw a different victim of the same: Michael Vick. Again, let me say that I do not speak to Mr. Vick's innocence or guilt, but only of facts. Vick's rights as a defendant in a criminal trial were flagrantly violated the minute that the uproar in the media over his actions began. Every defendant in a criminal trial is guaranteed the right to appear before an unbiased and objective jury of their peers. In many cases, this right results in the sequestration of the jury prior to trial to ensure that the media cannot influence their decisions. In Vick's case, I ask where this was even possible. Every potential juror in the United States had ready access to the facts (and suppositions) of the case, as well as the commentary. Most declared Vick to be guilty before the formality of the trial had even commenced. This isn't a trial by impartial jury, it's a trial by media. A trial as was never envisioned by the Founding Fathers of the United States, nor by the Fathers of Confederation here in Canada. A trial as is not sanctioned by law. A trial that is the equivalent of the gladitorial trials as were done in ancient Rome. A trial that is, definitionally, an abberration of justice.
In conclusion I ask only this - that we remember that our nation is built on foundations of equality of man, human rights (including the right to privacy), and justice for all. Perhaps it's time for our media to remember the same.
The video I refer to is the short-lived video allegedly depicting Mets superstar Pedro Martinez taking part in a cockfight in his home country of the Dominican Republic. This is not a condemnation of Martinez, nor is a condemnation of cockfighting. There are enough of those floating around the internet that adding one more doesn't make a great degree of sense. Furthermore, I don't condemn Martinez - his life, his time, his decision of how he spends it. Cockfighting is a legal and accepted aspect of Dominican culture - we find it barbaric, but who are we to judge? What I'm here to condemn instead are the people in the media - both the professional journalists, as well as the amateurs like myself who post to blogs, or post to Youtube - for invading the private life of an individual.
Ultimately, whether Martinez participated in a cockfight is immaterial. I don't know whether he did - I wasn't there, I never saw the Youtube video and, to be completely honest, I don't care. That being said, however, there is another, more important question that I have to ask myself: namely, "Is it my business?". The answer, if I look deep into my soul and answer honestly, is no.
So why, then, is it being reported on. Obviously, the professional journalist argues that the public wants to know, and that the public has an innate RIGHT to know. Were this issue to be something that actually has an effect on the population, I would agree with this argument. This is not such an issue. It's a case of one individual using his own time, in his own country, to engage one way or the other in a passtime that is not just legal, but is a cultural norm in that country. This is not the business of the general public.
Furthermore, what of the consequences? Should a man guilty of no crime be punished because of his actions? Most rational men would suggest that such an action would be an abberration of justice - yet this is precisely what some animal rights activist groups are suggesting. Martinez' alleged actions were not illegal, and were not opposed to any sort of code of conduct required from his contract with the New York Mets, and yet it's been suggested by some that a harsh suspension should be enacted against him - on the basis of a Youtube video, and a profession that deems the invasion of privacy to be a valid passtime in the name of filling public curiosity.
The damage to individual's reputations, however, are not the most severe reprecussions of this sort of journalism. This time last year, we saw a different victim of the same: Michael Vick. Again, let me say that I do not speak to Mr. Vick's innocence or guilt, but only of facts. Vick's rights as a defendant in a criminal trial were flagrantly violated the minute that the uproar in the media over his actions began. Every defendant in a criminal trial is guaranteed the right to appear before an unbiased and objective jury of their peers. In many cases, this right results in the sequestration of the jury prior to trial to ensure that the media cannot influence their decisions. In Vick's case, I ask where this was even possible. Every potential juror in the United States had ready access to the facts (and suppositions) of the case, as well as the commentary. Most declared Vick to be guilty before the formality of the trial had even commenced. This isn't a trial by impartial jury, it's a trial by media. A trial as was never envisioned by the Founding Fathers of the United States, nor by the Fathers of Confederation here in Canada. A trial as is not sanctioned by law. A trial that is the equivalent of the gladitorial trials as were done in ancient Rome. A trial that is, definitionally, an abberration of justice.
In conclusion I ask only this - that we remember that our nation is built on foundations of equality of man, human rights (including the right to privacy), and justice for all. Perhaps it's time for our media to remember the same.
Sunday, February 3, 2008
In conclusion...
So I've returned to the land of ice, snow, cold, and generally shitty winter weather also known as Canada. I'm safe, sound, disease free, and generally had a good time. That said, there are some lessons that should be passed on:
Beers discovered:
Presidente (Dominican Rep.) - Good the first time. Also good served at minus 5. Otherwise...
Bohemia (Dominican Rep.) - Definitely does NOT to justice to it's namesake - no self respecting Bohemian would drink this swill.
Prestige (Haiti) - First lager I've ever tried that tastes as good luke-warm as it does cold. Just for the record, it tastes good cold.
Liquors Discovered:
Brugal Anejo (Dominican Rep.) - The Dominican Republic's answer to Lambs amber. Tastes about as bad too. This doesn't even go down well with coke.
Brugal Extra Viejo (Domincan Rep.) - A significant upgrade over the Anejo, goes very well with coke, and can be drank straight up as well.
Barbancourt Reserve Speciale (Haiti) - Aged 8 years in oak barrels, quite bluntly, this rum kicks ass - and I don't like rum.
Everything else has already been covered previously. Read it if you want.
Anyhow, that concludes the public version of my trip. Keep checking in, as I'll update as regularily as there's an interesting story to tell, or I feel like voicing my (intelligent, witty, and valuable) opinion on something. Te Salut.
Beers discovered:
Presidente (Dominican Rep.) - Good the first time. Also good served at minus 5. Otherwise...
Bohemia (Dominican Rep.) - Definitely does NOT to justice to it's namesake - no self respecting Bohemian would drink this swill.
Prestige (Haiti) - First lager I've ever tried that tastes as good luke-warm as it does cold. Just for the record, it tastes good cold.
Liquors Discovered:
Brugal Anejo (Dominican Rep.) - The Dominican Republic's answer to Lambs amber. Tastes about as bad too. This doesn't even go down well with coke.
Brugal Extra Viejo (Domincan Rep.) - A significant upgrade over the Anejo, goes very well with coke, and can be drank straight up as well.
Barbancourt Reserve Speciale (Haiti) - Aged 8 years in oak barrels, quite bluntly, this rum kicks ass - and I don't like rum.
Everything else has already been covered previously. Read it if you want.
Anyhow, that concludes the public version of my trip. Keep checking in, as I'll update as regularily as there's an interesting story to tell, or I feel like voicing my (intelligent, witty, and valuable) opinion on something. Te Salut.
Monday, January 28, 2008
Pedernales - beach day
So we begin again. As with Haiti, there are three ways to get from Santo Domingo to Pedernales. You can fly, you can rent a car and drive yourself, or you can take a guagua. A guagua is like a bus, only the air conditioning doesn't work, there are more people than seats and your seat mate might, if you're travelling alone, be a live chicken (actually, that was the seatmate of the guy across and a row ahead of us on the way up). On the plus side, it's relatively cheap.
Seven hours on a bus after leaving Santo Domingo, with a couple stops along the way to eat, piss, and for the cobrador to flirt with some of the girls we drove past, we arrived on the edge of nowhere - the town of Pedernales, DR. Actually, the town itself, while small, isn't uncivilized. There are a couple of hotels - we stayed at the pink one. Specifically, the hotel was called the D'oLeo Mendez, and was was quite comfortable, reasonably priced, and clean. The food in the restaurant was excellent, and the staff took good care of us while we were there.
Bay of Eagles, from about 150 ft up
That being said, the hotel was NOT why we went to Pedernales. The reason we went to Pedernales is a wonder called Bahia de las Aguilas (sp?) - the Bay of Eagles. On the shore of the Caribbean, in the middle of a national park lies one of the most beautiful pieces of virgin wilderness I have ever seen. Water so clear you can see 20 ft to the bottom - from 150 ft in the air, bordering on a pristine white sand beach, marred only by the holes of sand crabs, separating ocean from a desert unique in that it is full of life - both plant and animal. Of particular note are a couple of rare species of iguana, as well as an in-desert wetland home to some 20 species of unique birds.
The desert
The trip from Pedernales to the bay can be done one of two different, equally stunning ways. On one hand, you can take a motoconcho (motorcycle transport) to get a boat to take you over water to the bay. This is the faster method, however the boats are, apparently, somewhat dodgy. Alternately, there is an overland route, which is a couple of hours by motoconcho. We elected to take the overland route, and were thus introduced to Vladimir - a Pedernales local, and also a knowledgeable and entertaining guide. The trip was on the whole uneventful (no accidents) and, simultaneously amazing. We went for 15 km down the highway, and then proceeded down dirt roads and trails, through a couple of villiages and the national park until we got to the bay. On the way, I discovered the perfect location to buy a little bit of land for a beach house. I'm in the process of looking into that. Vladimir gave us the lowdown on the local scenery, as well as some of the wildlife that we passed (including a couple of sightings of one of the rare iguanas).
See. Rare iguana.
That said, there is a sad note. Unfortunately, a French resort firm is looking to expand into this location. I have no objection to resorts, or corporate expansion, however there are some places where it isn't entirely desirable. This is one of those places. Fortunately, action taken by the Dominican government, and backed by a group of locals stopped the French expansion cold in this region. That being said, I still see a future for tourism in this remote slice of paradise - but tourism of a different kind.
Personally, resort-type vacations are not my cup of tea. That's fine, everyone has their preferences. The concept of eco-tourism/adventure tourism has always appealed to me, and this region is ideal for this style of expansion. Between the desert, and it's unique eco-systems, the bay itself, and the local version of the grand canyon (heard about, but sadly, not seen), there is opportunity here for both nature lovers, and adventurers at once. Anyone who knows me knows that spending a day bird-watching doesn't interest me in the slightest. That said, taking a motorbike into the canyon, or doing some mountain climbing/hiking most certainly does. Whats more, these services are all available to those who desire them from locals, and at reasonable prices besides all that. I believe that this island has the space for both resort-style tourism, and an alternative to that - Pedernales and the Bay of Eagles belong in the latter group.
For those of you who don't believe I was on a motorcycle.
Seven hours on a bus after leaving Santo Domingo, with a couple stops along the way to eat, piss, and for the cobrador to flirt with some of the girls we drove past, we arrived on the edge of nowhere - the town of Pedernales, DR. Actually, the town itself, while small, isn't uncivilized. There are a couple of hotels - we stayed at the pink one. Specifically, the hotel was called the D'oLeo Mendez, and was was quite comfortable, reasonably priced, and clean. The food in the restaurant was excellent, and the staff took good care of us while we were there.
Bay of Eagles, from about 150 ft up
That being said, the hotel was NOT why we went to Pedernales. The reason we went to Pedernales is a wonder called Bahia de las Aguilas (sp?) - the Bay of Eagles. On the shore of the Caribbean, in the middle of a national park lies one of the most beautiful pieces of virgin wilderness I have ever seen. Water so clear you can see 20 ft to the bottom - from 150 ft in the air, bordering on a pristine white sand beach, marred only by the holes of sand crabs, separating ocean from a desert unique in that it is full of life - both plant and animal. Of particular note are a couple of rare species of iguana, as well as an in-desert wetland home to some 20 species of unique birds.
The desert
The trip from Pedernales to the bay can be done one of two different, equally stunning ways. On one hand, you can take a motoconcho (motorcycle transport) to get a boat to take you over water to the bay. This is the faster method, however the boats are, apparently, somewhat dodgy. Alternately, there is an overland route, which is a couple of hours by motoconcho. We elected to take the overland route, and were thus introduced to Vladimir - a Pedernales local, and also a knowledgeable and entertaining guide. The trip was on the whole uneventful (no accidents) and, simultaneously amazing. We went for 15 km down the highway, and then proceeded down dirt roads and trails, through a couple of villiages and the national park until we got to the bay. On the way, I discovered the perfect location to buy a little bit of land for a beach house. I'm in the process of looking into that. Vladimir gave us the lowdown on the local scenery, as well as some of the wildlife that we passed (including a couple of sightings of one of the rare iguanas).
See. Rare iguana.
That said, there is a sad note. Unfortunately, a French resort firm is looking to expand into this location. I have no objection to resorts, or corporate expansion, however there are some places where it isn't entirely desirable. This is one of those places. Fortunately, action taken by the Dominican government, and backed by a group of locals stopped the French expansion cold in this region. That being said, I still see a future for tourism in this remote slice of paradise - but tourism of a different kind.
Personally, resort-type vacations are not my cup of tea. That's fine, everyone has their preferences. The concept of eco-tourism/adventure tourism has always appealed to me, and this region is ideal for this style of expansion. Between the desert, and it's unique eco-systems, the bay itself, and the local version of the grand canyon (heard about, but sadly, not seen), there is opportunity here for both nature lovers, and adventurers at once. Anyone who knows me knows that spending a day bird-watching doesn't interest me in the slightest. That said, taking a motorbike into the canyon, or doing some mountain climbing/hiking most certainly does. Whats more, these services are all available to those who desire them from locals, and at reasonable prices besides all that. I believe that this island has the space for both resort-style tourism, and an alternative to that - Pedernales and the Bay of Eagles belong in the latter group.
For those of you who don't believe I was on a motorcycle.
Saturday, January 26, 2008
Haiti - the final post
So this is it - the last of my three-part Haiti series. Yes, I know I got back a week ago, but what I saw/did is important enough that I felt it merited three posts. As well, I was on vacation the last couple days somewhere where there isn't any internet access, so I've been unable to finish even if I'd been so inclined.
Taken as we were waiting to meet the Prime Minister.
As I said, the reason why I was in Haiti in the first place had absolutely nothing to do with a vacation - I was there to observe as an NGO called the Batey Relief Alliance engaged in preliminary negotiations to establish a permanent mission in Haiti. The Batey Relief Alliance is an NGO dedicated to providing primary health care in areas passed over by existing national health plans in the Dominican Republic, and now, Haiti. The purpose of this mission is to establish a fully functional clinic in a small border town in south-eastern Haiti called Anse-a-Pitres.
Me, and the Prime Minister of Haiti, Jacques-Edouard Alexis
That being said, it would have been foolish to be in a nation that few people ever go to visit and not take in some of the local colour so to speak. As I said before, Alex and I had exceptionally good luck in our selection of cab driver on the first day in Haiti (although there is something to be said for having a private driver for the remainder lol). Unfortunately, I didn't get as strong an opportunity to see all the sights of Port-au-Prince as I would have liked (as the days were mostly full of meetings with various government officials), however there are a few things I will point out.
First of all - places to stay: there are two that I saw that I would recommend - the first is the Hotel Montana. Based right at the top of Port-au-Prince, this hotel offers guests a stunning view of the entire city, as well as impeccable service and good food. That being said, it's also $150 bucks a night on the low end, and really doesn't allow for the "authentic" feel of the city. The second is the Hotel Prince - which is located near the heart of the city in a gorgeous (if rather hard to find) neighbourhood called Paco. It too is built on the hill, offers excellent food and good service, at a much more affordable price of $90 per night. It was where we stayed, and was quite comfortable, and comes highly recommended for someone who wants greater opportunity to see the city itself.
Just down the street is the Hotel Olaffson. Once Haiti's "Grand Hotel", it now acts as a trendy nightspot in Port-au-Prince. If you're in the city and there is an event here, it is not to be missed. We had the opportunity to see a Haitian band called Ram perform there on Thursday evening, and the event was phenomenal. Taking a plethora of influences from Haitian history to the local Voodoo culture, Ram's many musicians, dancers, and vocalists put on a hugely entertaining performance that had even the most reluctant dancer in the crowd (yes, that would be me) on his feet and moving with everyone else.
Ram, mid concert. Rammstein, they weren't. Great fun none the less.
Of further note: Haiti boasts arguably the best lager in the world, for any beer drinkers amongst my readership - Prestige. Suffice it to say it even tasted good lukewarm - and we all know only ales are supposed to do that. I will also let anyone who reads this know, I have found one (and to this day only one) rum that I like - called Barabancourt, this Haitian rum is, quite frankly, superb. Two restaurants which cross the mind to recommend to any visitors to the Port au Prince area are Cafe Terrace, in downtown Port au Prince, and Coin des Artistes in Petion-ville.
As a final note - the "Tap-tap" mentioned in my previous post is the Haitian version of a public car, brightly painted almost by default. Also, one of the traditional Haitian "street-meats" so to speak, is fresh sugar cane. While questionably sanitary, this is the proverbial "shizznit", and is well worth a try if it happens to be available to you. The correct way to eat it is to bite off a small piece and chew it until the juices are gone, spitting out the remainder. It should not in any way be confused with another local delicacy, the cigar....
Then again, since when have I ever been one to take advice?
Taken as we were waiting to meet the Prime Minister.
As I said, the reason why I was in Haiti in the first place had absolutely nothing to do with a vacation - I was there to observe as an NGO called the Batey Relief Alliance engaged in preliminary negotiations to establish a permanent mission in Haiti. The Batey Relief Alliance is an NGO dedicated to providing primary health care in areas passed over by existing national health plans in the Dominican Republic, and now, Haiti. The purpose of this mission is to establish a fully functional clinic in a small border town in south-eastern Haiti called Anse-a-Pitres.
Me, and the Prime Minister of Haiti, Jacques-Edouard Alexis
That being said, it would have been foolish to be in a nation that few people ever go to visit and not take in some of the local colour so to speak. As I said before, Alex and I had exceptionally good luck in our selection of cab driver on the first day in Haiti (although there is something to be said for having a private driver for the remainder lol). Unfortunately, I didn't get as strong an opportunity to see all the sights of Port-au-Prince as I would have liked (as the days were mostly full of meetings with various government officials), however there are a few things I will point out.
First of all - places to stay: there are two that I saw that I would recommend - the first is the Hotel Montana. Based right at the top of Port-au-Prince, this hotel offers guests a stunning view of the entire city, as well as impeccable service and good food. That being said, it's also $150 bucks a night on the low end, and really doesn't allow for the "authentic" feel of the city. The second is the Hotel Prince - which is located near the heart of the city in a gorgeous (if rather hard to find) neighbourhood called Paco. It too is built on the hill, offers excellent food and good service, at a much more affordable price of $90 per night. It was where we stayed, and was quite comfortable, and comes highly recommended for someone who wants greater opportunity to see the city itself.
Just down the street is the Hotel Olaffson. Once Haiti's "Grand Hotel", it now acts as a trendy nightspot in Port-au-Prince. If you're in the city and there is an event here, it is not to be missed. We had the opportunity to see a Haitian band called Ram perform there on Thursday evening, and the event was phenomenal. Taking a plethora of influences from Haitian history to the local Voodoo culture, Ram's many musicians, dancers, and vocalists put on a hugely entertaining performance that had even the most reluctant dancer in the crowd (yes, that would be me) on his feet and moving with everyone else.
Ram, mid concert. Rammstein, they weren't. Great fun none the less.
Of further note: Haiti boasts arguably the best lager in the world, for any beer drinkers amongst my readership - Prestige. Suffice it to say it even tasted good lukewarm - and we all know only ales are supposed to do that. I will also let anyone who reads this know, I have found one (and to this day only one) rum that I like - called Barabancourt, this Haitian rum is, quite frankly, superb. Two restaurants which cross the mind to recommend to any visitors to the Port au Prince area are Cafe Terrace, in downtown Port au Prince, and Coin des Artistes in Petion-ville.
As a final note - the "Tap-tap" mentioned in my previous post is the Haitian version of a public car, brightly painted almost by default. Also, one of the traditional Haitian "street-meats" so to speak, is fresh sugar cane. While questionably sanitary, this is the proverbial "shizznit", and is well worth a try if it happens to be available to you. The correct way to eat it is to bite off a small piece and chew it until the juices are gone, spitting out the remainder. It should not in any way be confused with another local delicacy, the cigar....
Then again, since when have I ever been one to take advice?
Tuesday, January 22, 2008
A country destroyed - but not without hope.
I closed my last post with the idea of a nation destroyed, the idea of challenge, and the idea of hope. I want to continue to comment on that. Over the course of decades, the country of Haiti has been torn apart by the cruelty of Francois "Papa Doc" Duvalier, the corruption of Jean-Claude "Baby Doc" Duvalier, and multiple coup d'etats. Most recently, in 2004, democratically elected president Jean-Bertrand Aristide was deposed under circumstances that some say was the result of public outcry over an increasingly corrupt and violent rule. Others argue that he was essentially deposed by a foreign power who saw him as a threat to their security interests. The effects on the infrastructure of the country from this coup can still be seen. Which side is telling the truth is something that I certainly don't know, and will not comment on, however these two disparate sides to the story make for a volatile situation even today.
UN peacekeepers standing post in Port au Prince
That being said, I also spoke of challenges. The greatest challenge that this country faces is the need for the people to accept and embrace the new administration. Since the fall of the Duvalier administration, the Haitian people have become increasingly politically aware, and increasingly vocal in their political ideas. In the words of Rodrick (our cabbie in my last post), "Under [Duvalier], the people had to die in silence. Now they have a voice, and they're screaming." Those screams manifest after years of pent-up resentment, but also as a people coming into the fullness of the knowledge of how to exercise a new-found political will. The sitting administration, headed by Rene Preval (who actually succeeded Aristide in 1996), is seen in as many different lights by the Haitian people as the previous administration under Aristide. Some regard it with a great degree of distrust, while others see them as doing their best in a complicated, difficult political climate. Where both sides agree, however, is that they demand results of this administration - and they need them quickly.
Three guys running a tap-tap on the streets of Port au Prince.
This brings me to the subject of hope. Hope for a nation rebuilt. Hope for a stable, thriving country built on democratic principles. Hope for a brighter future. I already said that the Preval administration has certain demands placed on it by the Haitian people: demands for action. Those demands are slowly but surely being met. Slowly but surely, with the help of foreign aid, the sitting administration is beginning to rebuild the country. Having had the opportunity to spend some time in the halls of power, I was amazed at the effort being put in to finally make things right, and to do the job that the people entrusted them to do. Never before have I seen any governmental officials, certainly not at the ministerial and ambassadorial level working past 6:00 PM except in time of war. Yet, sitting in the Prime Minister's office at roughly this time and seeing the people still at work reveals the dedication of this administration to the task they set out before them. The people have their doubts, yes - but after many years of broken promises and broken faith, who can blame them? Those doubts aside, however, there is a sense of hope in the people - hope expressed in the little things. Construction projects are being undertaken - construction projects that seemed pointless in the face of increasing violence. Perhaps of greater significance is the fact that people are coming back out onto the streets at night, and under the glow of kerosene lanterns, merchants hawk their wares in front of freshly painted houses.
UN peacekeepers standing post in Port au Prince
That being said, I also spoke of challenges. The greatest challenge that this country faces is the need for the people to accept and embrace the new administration. Since the fall of the Duvalier administration, the Haitian people have become increasingly politically aware, and increasingly vocal in their political ideas. In the words of Rodrick (our cabbie in my last post), "Under [Duvalier], the people had to die in silence. Now they have a voice, and they're screaming." Those screams manifest after years of pent-up resentment, but also as a people coming into the fullness of the knowledge of how to exercise a new-found political will. The sitting administration, headed by Rene Preval (who actually succeeded Aristide in 1996), is seen in as many different lights by the Haitian people as the previous administration under Aristide. Some regard it with a great degree of distrust, while others see them as doing their best in a complicated, difficult political climate. Where both sides agree, however, is that they demand results of this administration - and they need them quickly.
Three guys running a tap-tap on the streets of Port au Prince.
This brings me to the subject of hope. Hope for a nation rebuilt. Hope for a stable, thriving country built on democratic principles. Hope for a brighter future. I already said that the Preval administration has certain demands placed on it by the Haitian people: demands for action. Those demands are slowly but surely being met. Slowly but surely, with the help of foreign aid, the sitting administration is beginning to rebuild the country. Having had the opportunity to spend some time in the halls of power, I was amazed at the effort being put in to finally make things right, and to do the job that the people entrusted them to do. Never before have I seen any governmental officials, certainly not at the ministerial and ambassadorial level working past 6:00 PM except in time of war. Yet, sitting in the Prime Minister's office at roughly this time and seeing the people still at work reveals the dedication of this administration to the task they set out before them. The people have their doubts, yes - but after many years of broken promises and broken faith, who can blame them? Those doubts aside, however, there is a sense of hope in the people - hope expressed in the little things. Construction projects are being undertaken - construction projects that seemed pointless in the face of increasing violence. Perhaps of greater significance is the fact that people are coming back out onto the streets at night, and under the glow of kerosene lanterns, merchants hawk their wares in front of freshly painted houses.
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